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Basic Rope Bondage by Mister GSafety Don’t tie a rope around the neck if there is any chance of it tightening or putting pressure on the front of the neck. Ropes around the neck shouldn’t be secured in such a way that a person losing their balance or fainting would end up hanging from the rope, A rope around the neck can add a very ‘edgy’ element to the play scene but the intention isn’t to strangle the sub. Don’t tie a knot in such a way that it presses against a major blood vessel (i.e. The inside of the wrist) This can cut off circulation and potentially cause permanent damage. Check circulation in the bottom's hands and feet often. As a safety precaution always have a good pair of scissors handy in case you've got to untie your partner in a relatively quick time period. An overly tight tie can cut off circulation, but a loosely tied bondage can allow an animated sub to move within the rope and cause rope burn. Respect your partner’s limits and abilities. Tying the elbows together behind the back might look cool but I’ve yet to meet anyone that can actually do it without dislocating something. Don’t put undue stress on joints by stretching or twisting them. Rope marks will start to fade as soon as the ropes are removed, and are usually completely gone in a couple of hours. Make sure your bondage is strong and secure. This is especially important where safety counts on the bondage, but even if safety isn’t a factor there’s nothing more irritating then the bondage coming undone in the middle of a scene. Types of rope The best types of rope to use for bondage are cotton or nylon, 1/4" to 5/16" diameter; any thinner and it painfully cuts into the flesh, any thicker and it won’t hold a knot very well. Cotton holds a knot better, but it's stiff until you've used it awhile--and many people prefer the shininess and color options of nylon. Although manila looks good, it chafes the skin and doesn't hold a knot worth a damn; polyester rope chafes the skin, won’t hold a knot, frays and looks lame to boot! Nylon is a great general-purpose rope: it's strong, it wears well, it's relatively comfortable, and it looks good, too. Good, basic nylon 3-ply is highly recommended for beginners. The ends of cut nylon rope can be prevented from unraveling by heat sealing, which can sometimes by carried out by your supplier. Otherwise it is a relatively simple operation carried out by momentarily pressing on the newly cut ends of the rope with a hot knife to melt the nylon. Traditional hemp rope is attractive to some people for its rugged look and its scratchy, uncomfortable feel. But compared to synthetic fibers it is more difficult to work, weaker, susceptible to rot and must be stored away from moisture and sunlight. It also is sensitive to abrasion, so your bottom might find ways to fray it by rubbing it along a sharp or jagged edge. The ends of hemp rope must be whipped to keep it from unraveling. "Working load" rating gives the heaviest item to be supported under static load conditions. "Breaking load" rating says how much weight is needed to break it under static load conditions. Compare manufacturers "working load" to your estimated dynamic load. Dynamic load varies according to how you are using the rope. A good rule of thumb for safe bondage is dynamic load equals ten times the weight applied. For example : A 120 pound sub suspended by a single rope. Rope Care and Feeding (from - http://members.aol.com/lolitassc/ropebasics.html) Prevent unraveling by dipping, taping, burning or whipping the ends. Washing is good for hygiene, softening and general laundering. Dirt causes inner abrasion and weakens rope. Store rope neatly coiled because kinks and twists can cause undue wear. Keep your rope in a cool, dry place, away from direct sunlight, such as an indoor cupboard or closet. Never store it outside, or even in a garage where fluctuations in temperature and humidity will weaken it and may cause rot. Properly stored rope will last a long time and serve you well. Poor care will cause rope to weaken and eventually to break. This is particularly important to remember if safety could be compromised by rope failure. Rope stored neatly will also be much more convenient to use during a scene. Don't embarrass yourself by keeping an eager partner waiting while you wrestle with a spaghetti of ropes! Some well-organized bondage enthusiasts find it useful to keep coils of rope sorted or even color-coded by length and type. Basic knots Square Knot (from -
http://ms.ha.md.us/~hotpink/)
French Bowline
Take the loose end of the rope down in front of the object, to start on the second loop. Now bring the rope behind the object, and up through the main loop, coming in from behind, and to the right of the previous coil of rope. Pull this coil of rope through the main loop, setting it to the right of the first loop. At any point along the way, you can slide and rearrange the coils of rope so that they are even, not too tight, and not too loose. Bring the loose end of the rope behind the object, up into the main loop from behind. Pull the loose end through the main loop, and then pass it behind the fixed end of the rope.
Check the coils of rope to make sure that they are evenly spaced, and not too tight or loose. They will still be easy to adjust. Pull the loose end and the fixed end in opposite directions to tighten down the knot. Lark’s
Head
This very easy knot can be tied even if the ends are already tied down. Both ends of the rope must have the same load, or the knot could slip and become unreliable. Use to tie into grommets or eyebolts for a neat, clean look. Also used to tie into D-rings, such as those found on a collar or on wrist restraints. A body harness or "Web" can be started by attaching to the subject's collar with a Lark's Head. For this type of application, the knot must be made with the centre of the rope, leaving two equal lengths to work symmetrically around the body. Highwayman's Hitch (from - http://www.iland.net/~jbritton/index.html) The Highwayman's Hitch is ideal for tying a rope to an object when you need a quick release. Just yank on the end that is not supporting the load to untie and completely remove the rope from the object it was made fast to. Step #1 Pull a bight under the object you are tying on to. The left side is the standing part and the right side is the end. The standing part is connected to the load. Step #2 Form a bight in the standing part. Step #3 Pull the bight over the object and through the original bight. Step #4 Make a bight in the end. Step #5 Insert it through the previous bight. Step #6
Pull the standing part to dress the knot. Then set the knot by pulling on
all parts. The end is yanked abruptly to disengage the knot.
Some Resources (many of which I borrowed heavily from) KNOT KNOWLEDGE http://www.iland.net/~jbritton/index.html Knots and Ropework http://ms.ha.md.us/~hotpink/knots/ |
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(from
-
Begin
by draping the rope on top of (i.e. on the side towards
you) the item to be tied up. Usually this will be a
wrist or ankle. (In these pictures a rolled-up towel
is being tied up.) The upper end is the end that will
be (or already is) fastened to some other object. Leave
enough loose rope at the bottom end to wrap around the
object several times.
Twist
the rope, so that you form a loop that crosses up and
over in front of the rope, above the object. I will
refer to this loop as the main loop to differentiate
if from the other loops that we will be making with
the rope. Since my twist went from left to right, up,
and back left over the rope, all the other work on this
knot will also progress from left to right. Most right-handed
people will find it easier to make the knot this way.
Pass the
loose end of the rope behind the object being tied,
and through the main loop from behind.
Bring
the loose end of the rope around the fixed end, and
back down into the main loop, so that it goes through
the main loop next to, but in the opposite direction
from, the part you just pulled through. Imagine two
trains going under a bridge in opposite directions on
parallel tracks. 
